During this month malls everywhere will fill up with Saudis shopping until they drop (which would be around 2 am). What a better opportunity for the muttawa to get some serious moral enforcement done! If you don't know what Saudi religious police are read more here and find out some of my previous encounters with them here and here.
New toys for the bearded boys
Before the Holy Month the muttawa have been busy preparing their fleet of white GMC Suburbans in anticipation of making many new arrests. CPVPV recently received some (about 53 million dollars) bribery ahem sorry support money from the royal family and they were able to pimp their 600 rides with hi-tech anti-immorality gadgets. The GMC's now contain laptops, scanners, fax and copy machines and I bet a coffee machine and a plasma TV too.
Why is Ramadan such a fruitful time for muttawa?
Firstly because of the pure numbers of immodestly dressed women and men at malls nearly triple compared to normal months. Uncovered faces, male-leggings (meggins), pink shirts on men, shorts, flashy abayas, high heels, t-shirts with the highest button left unbuttoned..
You name it- surely the muttawa will find it.
During daytime muttawa are also on the look out to catch foreigners secretly taking a sip of water or chewing gum in public places which is viewed as forbidden during Ramadan daylight hours (but only in Saudi-Arabia!)
Ramadan also enables easier entry to malls for single men who are normally unable to enter malls without a female (guardian). They might try to sneak into crowded malls by infiltrating in groups of women as fake brothers.
Special opportunities
Food courts are another place of interest for muttawa since lots of haram mixing happens if the food court counters are not separated by screens. Women tend to remove their veils partially when eating in the closed family sections. This poses great potential for eager muttawas specialized in terrorizing dining females.
Women's clothing stores might have hidden dressing rooms in the back rooms and if found the muttawa have really hit the jackpot!
Another point of interest for muttawa are mirrors. Some shops for women's clothing actually hide mirrors behind the racks.
Muttawa are also keen to check on the abaya shops for anything with too much color or bling-bling on it. In other words, anything other than ALL BLACK is forbidden. There is no point of going to the abaya shops when muttawa are present at the mall (if looking for anything else than the standard all black version). Abaya salesmen are clever enough to trick muttawa by hiding the flashy abayas and scarves. Even the catalog for the embroidery and sequins have magically disappeared.
Muttawa field trips
I experienced the muttawa having a blast at one their favorite hangouts Granada Mall, known to locals as "Gharnaata Moll". As my husband and I entered I noted the presence of not one but two muttawa vehicles parked outside the entrance. I made a remark to my husband betting we will run into them. I counted seven muttawa apprentices in addition to the Big Boss donning the "Harry Potter" cape, all accompanied by one or two security officers.
We actually went to this mall specifically to check out the Saudi Cancer Society Photo Exhibition held there. Funny how they allowed that btw.
I took some pictures and before I could say "maashallah" I spotted the muttawa.
They didn't seem to have any interest in the exhibition itself (although images of live things and art by Saudi women were on display and there was no segregation of sexes). Instead they were going in and out of stores checking for above mentioned forbidden things.
As a side note, unfortunately the exhibition didn't attract many visitors, only a few men went in. No women entered during the time we were there. Maybe they were too busy shopping?
The bearded bullies enter a kids clothing shop
The store was packed with women and the joyous mood instantly changed to silence and wary looks.
The bearded threat first went around and told all women to cover(they all had niqab on). He then picked out one of the male staff and took him to the back room. Everyone was quiet and the atmosphere was like being in a horror movie, will he return alive?
After they emerged (the clerk looked very pale) the muttawa approached my husband. He started interrogating him; name, workplace and so on. The muttawa had an issue with his shorts which were under the knee length but nevertheless the muttawa deemed them inappropriate. He told my husband he should leave the mall!
My husband promised not to wear them next time.
During this grilling session the security guy stood nearby looking extremely squirmy and embarrassed trying to motion for the muttawa to leave.
The muttawa ignored the police officer and then shifted his interest to me.
He asked my husband why doesn't your wife have a niqab (face veil) on? My husband replied: "What she is wearing is fine. What is your problem?"
The muttawa said Saudi men should keep their jewels hidden. Hehehe. So what was the rebellious exposed jewel doing during all this? Laughing to herself at the funny situation and taking a picture of course!
So what happened to the salesman they harassed? The highest button on his T-shirt had been open and muttawa had given him a long lecture in the back room.









Asalam Alaykum, We have seen them out and about at Kingdom Mall this weekend as well. I am always scared lol but I fully veil so I do not have any problems here alhumdullah. :)
ReplyDeleteA few months ago we were at Hyatt Mall and they had this guy with a HUGE mustache he was a paid to be there and they came and gave him a hard time and said he had to cut it right there on the spot. IT was INSANE..
OMG @ Noor and the mustache story!
ReplyDeleteMy husband was also harrassed for wearing shorts and flip flops while he was here. They were well below the knee. I was waiting for them to mention the fact that my face was uncovered, but they did not.
My 15 year old niece was almost arrested a couple days ago for her strip of black and white fabric sewed into her abaya. Her brother came to her aid, but had to swear to take her home.
I was in Hayat mall 2 days ago and there was a group of 4 Muttawa walking without a police officer. I wore my fancy abaya that's mostly pink so I was scared and turned my back to them. They raided a tiny photo shop (checking for ladies, maybe?) and also went to the food court, to the closed off area where women sat, and yelled loudly at 3 or 4 tables of women. My daughter asked me who they were, and I told her they are idiots.
I wish during Ramadan they would worry about bigger issues like maid abuse, witholding payment from employees, crazy drivers and such!
That sounds crazy Laylah although your post I was thinking Ya Allah, where do they get off. But surely there are more seriously pressing issues to worry about then covered faces and short length. i Love reading your blog it makes my day haha can't wait till I come to Saudi and view some of these craziness myself :)
ReplyDeleteI believe the correct term for shorts is "immoral trousers". At least that's what they were called in an article I read about some guy getting in trouble for wearing them and when they were banned from being allowed here on airplanes (I think that sort of dissapeared) We always call them that in our house.
ReplyDeleteNoor-please tell me they didnt make him cut the moustache there?? What did you mean he was paid to be there? In any case that IS insane.
ReplyDeleteundertheabaya- she had only a strip and they wanted to arrest her??whats going on nowadays with haia, its as if all this madness is just becoming worse and worse..I know it sounds crazy but next time please don't turn away just walk by calmly with your head held high,I promise you will feel like a thousand dollars afterwards and they can't do anything to you..
lol your daughter knows the truth then ;)
Good suggestion on what they could be doing!
My suggestion is muttawa could start fundraising in shoppingmalls. Go around and encourage people to give zakat..saudis just tend spend and splurge in the malls, so this could be a good way to remind people of the gift of charity..
Angel-Thanks!when are you coming to KSA?
ReplyDeleteYes I guess I could start a comedy series on muttawa encounters..It could be called "Bearded Bullies" any other suggestions?
Sandy-that's funny! Immoral trousers. Next time my husband is about to wear them out I will tell him that :)
not sure yet I am waiting for a scholarship to study there and also trying to get permission to get married (early early stages at this point in time) very difficult cause I do not know of any Australians married to Saudi and how they did it and not mention he is 26 not 35 :(
ReplyDeletebut insha Allah i will get the scholarship then move forward on the permission while in KSA.
haha yes i would so watch it i will update u if i come up with a name :)
loool looks like you've been stalking them/:p
ReplyDeleteHi Layla, have been following your blog for a while as I am fascinated with Saudi Arabia...I'm not sure why, I guess I just find it fascinating reading about how people live under those ˝extreme˝ conditions (well, at least from an European point of view). Though I guess one can get used to anything :) Anyways, just wanted to say that I love your blog, it's probably my fave Saudi blog as it is funny and very informative at the same time, keep up the good work :)
ReplyDeleteOh, and just out of curiosity - do you wear the hijab when you're out? I know that non-Muslim women do not have wear a hijab in Saudi (let alone a niqab) so I was surprised to hear about the muttawa making a fuss because of your uncovered face! Or do they just have to find *some* excuse to harass people? How terrible :/
Regards,
Sylvia
hi... I enjoyed reading your articles....
ReplyDeleteyou're great!!!
Oh my God you are hilarious. Your musings also make me feel a lot of nostalgia for riyadh, i miss saudi arabia, where i lived for one year (i live in dubai now). I used to live near granada mall but never actually met a muttawa commando there, i actually had to go to old batha, yementown, to meet some...i was looking for some adrenalin!! I actually had to beg my friend (wearing niqab but also a lot of eye make-up) not to make eye contact with them...she actually said she found one of them to be hot....in a prohibitive way! How crazy is that!!!
ReplyDeleteKeep writing you are fabulous. Kisses to your little malika.
Angel-good luck on getting your scholarship and the permission!
ReplyDeleteCFJ- me, stalking the muttawa? hahaha you might actually be right I did follow them to take pictures :)
Sylvia-thanks for your kind words, I really appreciate it!You asked about hijab, you're right non-muslim women are not required to wear it. Muttawa seem to be more adamant on what wives of Saudis wear in public. I wear the hijab but it wasnt enough for them, or then they just wanted to find something to fuss about like you said.
Marc- thank you for commenting and glad you enjoyed!
umm sameera-thanks for commenting and your kind words, really means a lot to me :)
when were you in Riyadh?Thats amazing that you didnt see them in gharnaata! I bet batha was crawling with them!
Yeah I was addicted to batha, hallat al qusman souk and the shady area, hara of the bangladeshis...muttawa there found rich sinful territory!! I would go there all covered up and take in those unique sights, the hungry-eyed men, the occasional groper, the muttawa patrol cornering the stray muslims and pushing them to the mosque at sala time...Cannot find such adventures in Dubai. Sigh. I lived in Riyadh till March last year.
ReplyDeleteI wish all the best to your mother, be strong and healthy. Write, write more about my beloved Riyadh Layla, I live it through your eyes now.
PS do you have a nanny for your cutie yet? You should do a post about indonesian-filipino-ethiopian nannies in the multi-baby Saudi families!
Umm Sameera- that's crazy! But in a good way ;)
ReplyDeleteDid you ever go to "princess souq" in Batha? Its a secondhand souq selling ridiculously cheap (5 SAR) but usually very tacky evening gowns, supposedly from the houses of princesses..But boy that place is infested with pervs, gropers, and hungry-eyed men. That reminds me I was going to write a post about it!
I hate these Muttawa, Whenever I see them I get upset. This is how most of Saudies feel about them. I hope soon we can kick them out of our streets and malls.
ReplyDeleteBandar
Amazing! I can't even believe it. Doesn't it get exhausting being that picky? I get exhausted just following regular rules, I can't imagine also trying to follow rules made up by picky men who have nothing better to do but suck ALL of the light and fun out of being a Muslim.
ReplyDeleteIt sounds pretty intense where you are all at in KSA. We in the eastern province have some stories to tell about malls and mutawa, but not that bad. Lately though they are trying to strike harder, it seems.
ReplyDelete